|Filicudi from Pollara|
|The enclosed open-air sitting room|
|Vulcano mudbath girl|
|Il Capitano steers with his feet|
|Swimming at the Blue Grotto|
At this time of the year our farmhouse costs only $400 euros for the week, really a bargain. For another 18 euros a day we can rent a motorbike from the architect, so we did that yesterday. We've only ridden motorbikes once before (Vespas in Bermuda, years ago) and had never ridden tandem, so it was a bit tense at first, but we soon got the hang of it--John driving and me hanging on in back. The mountain roads we went on couldn't have been more twisty. Fortunately, the bike came with sturdy helmets in case of a spill. It was a lot of fun but I think we'll stick with the local bus for the rest of the week!
We motored over the hill to the small beach town of Rinella, where we joined the locals eating Sunday afternoon lunch at a restaurant overlooking the little harbor. Dish of the day was "spaghetti with fish"--a platter of spaghetti cooked in the local style (capers, tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, basil) with a delicious whole fish, accompanied by eggplant caponata and Messina, the local beer. Way too much for the two of us to eat, but really nice.