|Our deck and dryer|
We even get to join in the daily ritual of hanging our laundry out to dry on the lines above the street--now I really feel Sicilian.
|The clothespin is a Sicilian's greatest asset|
The bus situation here is kind of funny. There's a really good road that goes all the way around the island and buses could easily make a circular route, but for some reason there are two bus routes--one that goes halfway around, clockwise, to Quattropani (1.70 euros), and the other that goes a third of the way around, counterclockwise, to Aquacalda (1.55 euros). To connect between the two for the full circuit you have to walk 3 miles from the end of the first route to the end of the second route! I'm sure somebody's benefiting (taxi drivers?) from this crazy setup, but it's not the passenger.
|John on the road to Aquacalda, Salina in the background|
On our walk we saw an interesting company working on the roadside, securing metal netting to prevent landslides-- "Vertical Workers." The picture looks like they're Navy Seals or CIA machine-gunners on ropes, but in reality they're just using power tools to drill into the rock.
Mostly we have been cooking at the apartment (pasta, pasta, pasta) but last night we ate out at a very cool restaurant, L'Anfora, nestled in one of the narrow alleys near the port. The restaurant's tables are lined up at the end of the alley, and to get to them you get to walk by the laundry drying on little racks outside people's homes.
|L'Anfora restaurant, in the alley|
The meal included a small souffle of ricotta, shrimp, and spring onions; a caprese salad with delicious homegrown tomatoes and to-die-for fresh buffalo mozzarella, a risotto with zucchini flowers and more shrimps, and tuna on a bed of arugula with a balsamic reduction sauce. We loved everything but the tuna, which was plentiful but just adequate. Note to self: next time you feel like ordering tuna and you're not in Japan or the coastal United States, order something else instead!
It's easy to get to the other islands from Lipari--both public hydrofoils and private excursion boats are constantly plying the waters.
|No climb for you!|
He had plans to climb Stromboli but has had to put them on hold because the climb is too dangerous while the volcano is so active.
We had a good view from the boat, though it's almost impossible to capture it in pictures with my little camera.
|Stromboli erupting at night|
Or the guy selling fresh fish from a truck on the main street
Or the posters announcing the funeral arrangements for local residents.
Or, on a happier note, the tub races in Marina Corta, the harbor for excursion boats and private craft.