|Dragonfruit--like eating a dalmatian with pink skin|
The second unusual feature of the drive was the hundreds of small, privately owned rest stops where you could pull over for refreshments and a hammock break. Wouldn't it be nice if U.S. rest stops had hammocks too?
|I've never seen a hammock I didn't want to be in|
Ho Chi Minh City was a lot less daunting after 23 days traveling around the country. Yes, HCMC surely takes the top prize for the highest concentration of motobikes in the world, but it seemed so much calmer than it did when we first arrived. Do I dare say we've gotten used to the motorbike overload?
|5 million ... and counting|
The city has a lot going for it--there's a modern, vibrant feel to it that was not as noticeable in Hanoi. Young people flock here for jobs, shopping, and entertainment. Everybody is doing something, going someplace. There's great shopping at modern stores (the clothes are especially nice in the district 1 shops), tons of restaurants and coffee shops, but also thriving Vietnamese street life of the more traditional sort. For example, right outside our modern hotel (the Sanouva) street vendors cook and serve noodles and veggies to passersby morning and night.
We checked off a couple of tourist musts. Visited the lovely main post office with its old maps painted on the walls and a big portrait of Ho Chi Minh looking down over the customers. The building is old, in the French style (designed by Gustave Eiffel), and many of the original features have been retained even while the postal business goes on, uninterrupted by the tourists snapping photos.
Across the street is Notre Dame Cathedral--a brick version of the Parisian landmark, sans buttresses. There are actually quite a few Catholic churches in HCMC and the Mekong area, but many of them are built in a pseudo-Asian style that makes you look twice when you see a cross on the building.
We also took in the Cholon district, Chinatown, which has lots of pagodas as well as a big wholesale market selling birds nests for soup, shark fins (ugh), and sundry other goods in bulk. After the market we stopped in at the very active Thien Hau temple where lots of praying was going on despite the crowds of tourists gawking at the hanging incense coils and other temple features.
|Hanging incense coils burn in memory of ancestors for a couple of weeks|
|Le makes like a Vietcong--put the top down and disappear|
|Cao Dai elders during the prayer service|
We returned to HCMC for the night but headed out again the next morning for a two-day exploration of the Mekong Delta. The river dominates life in this area, and we were able to get a sense of the place by taking several different sizes of boats over the course of the two days. The wide, main river section is busy with boat traffic--all varieties of produce, sand, petrol, tourists, you name it--and we spent most of our time on a long, covered motorboat with the standard noisy engine. But we were also able to go through some of small canals on a quiet rowboat, which was really nice.
|Quiet time on a Mekong canal|
Last night we stayed in the small city of Can Tho, right along the river, and really enjoyed seeing the locals relaxing and exercising in the park along the river in the cooler evening temperatures. A few games of foot badminton were going on, too (a cross between hacky sack and badminton).
This morning we got up at 6 a.m. and took a boat downriver (or was it upriver?) to the Can Tho floating market, where boats from surrounding areas and even other provinces gather every morning to sell their produce to Can Tho residents. Each boat that is selling something hoists that product (watermelon, pumpkin, taro, onion, pineapple, whatever) up on a bamboo pole over the boat so that buyers, on smaller boats, can easily see which boats to go to for what. Our guide told us that the market has been getting smaller year by year, mainly because of the cost of petrol for the boats--it's apparently cheaper to bring the produce to market in other ways.
|Longan, a small fruit with a big seed|
The drive back to HCMC took about 4 hours, including a stop for lunch at a large, nicely run rest stop/shopping opportunity/restaurant, which serves most of the tour groups, large and small, that travel from the delta to city. It's a thriving operation that must make a ton of money for the owner, who is already very powerful in the area, according to our guide. Pretty good food though, including one of the specialties of the delta: elephant ear fish wrapped in (edible) rice paper with lettuce, pineapple, and rice noodles.
|All wrapped up and ready to eat|
So that's a wrap for our 24-day trip to Vietnam. It's been a pleasure. Never got tired of the food--there was always something different to try, and it was usually very good. The scenery was varied and often incredibly beautiful. The weather was quite nice in the north and got warmer as we went south; afternoons in HCMC and on the delta were best spent inside an air-conditioned space, though mornings and evenings were comfortable and great times for walking around. The people we met were universally friendly and welcoming. Our accommodations-- with the exception of the hotel we stayed at in Lai Chau, in the far northwest--were all modern, very comfortable, and reasonably priced. Our guides were terrific, though some were easier to understand than others. The drivers were great (Mr. Driver's gearshift problems aside). We really enjoyed Vietnam and are so glad to have been able to spend a good chunk of time here, getting to know the country from top to bottom.
Next stop: Siem Reap, Cambodia